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We were awoken just after
5am (still very dark), had our coffee, wash and breakfast, then
started up the Western Breach at about 7am.
"Pole, pole" was now no longer
just a good idea, but the only game in town. The rocky
buttresses beside the route were magnificent, and the view back down
the mountain as we gained altitude was spectacular, but the going
was hard, and as the day went on, we spent less time admiring the
view and more and more time just focused on the next
step.
The lower part of the trail up the breach
was mostly over loose screes. We crossed snow and patches of
ice several times, and here it was important to take very careful
steps to avoid stumbling and possibly sliding down - a price we
didn't want to pay considering how hard-won was each little gain
towards the crater!
Some time between 11am and noon - not
sure exactly - we reached a little rocky plateau - very small, but
almost flat. There was lunch awaiting us again - our
dependable and delectable lunch! The only concession to the
altitude was the lack of table and chairs, but there was still a
tablecloth, and we were able to enjoy the food and the
rest.

Another party passed us at lunchtime, and
we gave them a head start before continuing up the breach.
Some time later, a shout came up, and some good-size rocks
came crashing down the slope towards us - we saw them pass by some
yards away. It was clear now why we were wearing
helmets.
Through the afternoon, height seemed to
be gained only very slowly. As always, we tried to drink water
frequently, and concentrated on every step. Ray advised us not
to look up, but to focus on each step and keep going. It soon
became advisable not to look down either.
There were some sections of climbing -
hand-jams in a couple of spots - but it was not really difficult,
and the real challenge was fatigue. Greg fell back a little,
and Fredy stayed with him, but the group got back together for the
last hundred feet or so of climbing. We seemed so close now,
but the path kept cutting from side to side and it went
slowly.
At one point, Ray had us take a breather
before proceeding up a little section of climbing. At the
time, we didn't really think about why he did this, but we suspected
later that the exposure here might have been at its greatest and he
wanted us at our best.
At last, a
little after 4pm, we reached the edge of the crater.
Spectacular! - like a lunar landscape, but with a massive wall of
ice ahead of us on the left side. Although there was still the
summit climb ahead the next day, this was really the moment of
achievement.
In camp, the crew was purposeful and
efficient - no time to waste, dinner was prepared and served
quickly, and as soon as possible all buttoned-down for the
night. Although it was very misty in the crater when we
arrived, at sunset the mist cleared, there were lovely colours, then
a clear sky.
Uh-oh! - a cold night ahead.
Wearing absolutely all our clothes inside
our sleeping bags, the night was bearable, but getting out of the
bag for the inevitable service breaks was no fun! Greg made a bit of an error: he considered putting
his water supply inside his sleeping bag, but he didn't do it, and
in the night the supply froze solid and he was unable to drink until
the morning. He also had a little stomach difficultly and had
to make a hasty latrine run at 4am. He was very grateful for
the full moon, since his flashlight was dead.
Barney, meanwhile, had a bad night
too, awoken at around 1am by a fast pulse and alarmingly rapid
breathing. He lay in bed wondering if this was the end.
Greg was snoring in the next tent and did not answer his appeals.
He tried to be philosophical: was it a reasonable way to
go, to spend one's last days dancing with Maasai and climbing
the Western Breach ....? but all was well, although he still
felt rather weak in the
morning. |