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We arrived in Tanzania on
Tuesday, June 14th and were met by our driver and taken from
Kilimanjaro airport to the Mountain Village Hotel in Arusha.
We discovered that in Tanzania they drive on the left -
mostly. Moses did a great job negotiating the traffic and we
arrived at our hotel safely and ready for a comfortable first
night's sleep.
After breakfast on
Wednesday, we met with Allan from the mountain guide company who
went over the logistics and last-minute preparations for the
trek. It was at this meeting that we learned how big our crew
would be on the mountain: guide, assistant guide, cook, and 13
porters. For the two of us! Our kit and medical
preparations were all in order, and we said goodbye to Allan
and set off for Sinya Camp
with Paul, our guide for the next two days.
We passed a market - varieties of
produce, clothing, pots and pans etc. Heading to market were
men on bicycles with improbable amounts of stuff hanging from the
handlebars, and women with equally large loads on their heads.
Outside of town, small mixed groups of animals - cows, goats,
donkeys - grazed between the crops. Paul talked about
Tanzanian tribes, languages and migration history as we drove over
progressively smaller roads towards the camp. We caught our
first glimpse of Kibo (Kilimanjaro) above the clouds - with its
snowcap gleaming at the top, it looked very far
away.
Arriving at the camp, we were
greeted by Sylvester, the camp manager and cook. Sinya is a
very relaxing setting - perfect for chilling out for two days before
the trek. An excellent lunch was served. The other
guests - all from Spain - included a honeymoon couple who kept
disappearing. They will not be not climbing Kilimanjaro on
this trip.
We took two game drives at Sinya - on the
first afternoon and again the next morning, starting before
dawn. Since this is a private concession, we were not subject
to game park rules and were in an open-sided vehicle giving a great
view of the animals: Thompson's and Grant's gazelles, impalas,
dik-dik, wildebeeste, warthogs, giraffes, elephants, zebras,
gibbons, ostriches, vernal monkeys, and a great variety of
birds. The Maasai tend their cattle in the area too, so it was
unlikely that we would see the large predators at Sinya, and we
didn't, but it was a great place to be introduced to the safari
experience, far from the crowds we would encounter later at
Ngorongoro.

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On Thursday after our morning game drive,
we went for a walk around the area near the camp with Lucas, a young
Maasai. He pointed out many plants and described their uses,
and showed us where the warriors go to eat meat, away from the women
and children. In the afternoon we visited one of the nearby
Maasai villages, where the women, young children and elders
stay. It was fascinating to learn the details of this culture,
substantially unchanged and existing alongside the many peoples who
are part of modern Tanzania.

In the evening, we celebrated on a hill
overlooking Sinya Camp. Maasai warriors danced, and Greg and
Barney were compelled to join in the dancing, a wonderful memory
that is saved from being acutely embarrassing by the fact that all
the other guests joined in too. As the sun set, the clouds
above Kilimanjaro cleared, and we had an awe-inspiring view of the
mountain we would start climbing the next day.
After sunset, we went back to camp for a
shower and change then sat around the campfire before dinner.
A geek moment: Greg remarked that we could see Ursa Major (the Big
Dipper to Americans) and the Southern Cross in the same
sky.

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